Category Archives: Shopping in Saigon

Jun16

The luxury of ‘cool’ and a taste of France.

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The luxury of ‘cool’ and a taste of France.

Retail is my life.

For those who don’t know me, my day job (and night job, early morning job, weekend job, holiday job and every other time of the day, week or year job) is researching, commentating, writing about and photographing retail stores – in all parts of the world.

I create and manage content for Asia’s newest retail information website InsideRetail.Asia, and for 10 years have been a director of Inside Retail Australia.

The majority of the 5800 or so images in my FlickrPro account are of retail stores in Europe, Asia, North America and Australasia.

So living in Ho Chi Minh City – essentially the central point of Asia if you consider the continental stretches from India across to Japan and south to Australia – is a convenient place to pop off to glitzy retail capitals like Bangkok, Singapore, Hong Kong or Kuala Lumpur. As I do.

It also gives me a fair qualification to comment on retailing in Saigon. And before you fear the worst, it’s not that bad!

Many people judge a city’s retail based on the size of its air conditioned, sterile malls and the number of international top-end brands inside them. That’s OK if you have the bank balance to allow you to splurge on Louis Vuitton or Gucci every second weekend, but for the vast majority of us, those retail stores – while admittedly stunningly designed and executed –  are the gleaming fascias we walk past on the way to the stores we can afford to shop in.

I love walking through a new Louis Vuitton store (Shanghai’s Pudong for example), but I love far more the excitement of discovering something new, something unique, something fun or entertaining – something which breaks the mould. If you look carefully you can find such stores in almost every city in the world, no matter how mature the retail market.

Let’s be fair, organised retail in Saigon is still relatively new. By international standards, Vincom would score less than 50 per cent for design with all its dead end corridors and poor pedestrian flows. I have a friend from overseas who walked the entire mall twice and claims he still couldn’t find Phuong Nam book store!

And while I am on it: where else in the world would you find a supermarket with two full display racks of pet toys and a whole corridor of dog beds, but which does not sell pet food?!

Those points aside, Vincom still has an exceptionally good range of food for humans and it is home to one of my favourite stores (so far) in Saigon: Runway.

Inside Runway in Vincom.

This is truly world class: it’s a sort of gallery of new trendy, funky fashion and accessories curated in a collection of adjacent spaces. A focal point is a large round ‘cocoon’ covered in highly polished steel mermaid-like scales which serves as a private dressing room for those who want to try on clothes away from the public gaze.

The amazing cocoon – the store’s centrepiece.

Sure, many of the clothes and homewares on display are beyond the average budget. Not too many Vietnamese people can afford a 40 million dong Alexander McQueen dress, for example.

The store is designed in a large, disconnected loop (it’s broken by a public corridor to the elevators!). This is the back where you’ll find homewares and some very cool stuff for kids.

But wandering through this store, with its winding path and ice cave effect, is like walking through a modern art gallery. It’s an experience, which is what great retailing is all about.

The store was designed by Italian architect CLS Architetti. Cleverly, they caught on to the concept that in a hot tropical area like southern Vietnam, “the real luxury is cold”. So the store is entirely cool grey in colour, from polished cement floors, up.

As Soosi Lee, director of Runway, explained (for a feature I wrote for the June-July edition of Inside Retail Magazine in Australia): “The space is like an ice cave where people can experience a path which is a metaphor of life and rebirth.”

In some places, Runway feels more like a luxury home than a retail store.

CLS used 3D modelling to create the cave effect which was later constructed using 298 curved wooden panels, each with different shapes creating a ripple effect when you look towards the ceiling. Each panel was hand cut then hand screwed together. There is another store from the same Runway folk on the ground floor of Crescent Mall in District 7, called RRR Runway and specialising in what fashion labels describe as “diffusion lines”, subsidiary brands often aimed at a younger demographic.

RRR Runway might be smaller but it is equally compelling. It was also designed by CLS Architetti.

RRR Runway in Crescent Mall, District 7.

French appeal

Another great retail experience is L’usine: a cafe-gallery upstairs above the artist’s arcade on Dong Khoi. Here you can step back into the era when Saigon was part of a French colony. L’usine is housed in a traditional old villa-style building, on the middle one of three floors, with towering ceilings, solid concrete walls and iron-framed windows.

Perspectives of L’usine – (All L’usine images from the company’s Facebook site).

The dining area – which really needs expanding at the expense of retail space, so popular has this venue become with the expat community – features giant tables crafted from sewing factory tables, with solid iron legs and heavy timber panels: you’d never build tables this solid today.

These solid wood and iron tables have to be seen to be believed…

The cafe serves espresso-style coffee, cupcakes from Sweet & Sour, light meals, wine and beer. The walls feature photography or artwork on a rotational basis. Currently, there is a stunning display of historic black and white photos of city life.

The store side of the business offers an eclectic mix of unusual homewares and clothing you’re unlikely to see in the same place anywhere else in Saigon… Or perhaps anywhere for that matter…

From bespoke motorcycle helmets and cute plastic cupcake-shaped sugar bowls, through to hip laptop bags and designer label denim, it’s an ideal destination for the gift-shopper or for an occasional dose of retail therapy.

So, there are two picks of retail excellence from Saigon. I haven’t seen every store in Saigon yet – and I could never achieve such a feat. There are also many more worth a visit – for shopping or just for an experience.

As I opened, retail is my life, so you can be sure of reading a lot more about my Saigon retail experiences – good and bad – in coming months! Next installment, I’ll introduce you to two budget stores perfect for eclectic, distinctive Saigon gifts for guests from abroad…

Apr22

Don’t blink or it might be gone…

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Don’t blink or it might be gone…

Such is the relentless pace of growth and change in Vietnam, discovering something new in downtown Ho Chi Minh can be an almost daily experience.

I’ve lost count of the number of times I’ve seen a new store or business open up somewhere in the city and stopped to think “But what was there last week”?  When I grew up in New Zealand we had an expression when driving through small towns “Don’t blink or you’ll miss it”. In Saigon it’s more like “Don’t blink or it might be gone.”

I write this blog in a new bookshop-cafe in the Vincom Centre – a store that did not exist a few weeks ago and judging by the balloons and giant floral tributes mounted on easels outside the door, it celebrated its official opening just yesterday.

I checked the book section out yesterday and discovered they stock my favourite regional current events magazine, SEA Global, a current events magazine published by expats in Cambodia, of all places, which I’d previously only found in Bangkok.
The bookstore, Phuong Nam Book, stocks a modest but eclectic collection of books in English and Vietnamese, features a dedicated eBook counter, including readers, a selection of hip electronic accessories and a range cases and gadgets to complement your Apple toys.

The eBook counter at Phuong Nam Book.

I’m back today trialling the coffee shop section, the imaginatively named Book Cafe, partly because at 10.40am on a Sunday morning, Highlands Coffee down below is completely full – not a single table available, or even space to use a laptop at a counter. A week ago, I’d have wandered further into town, but as of this week there’s at last another coffee option in Vincom (save for the ritzy Armani Cafe, for which I don’t have sufficiently polished shoes, Italian threads or glistening bling, so probably would not be seated).

The coffee is surprisingly good – and the price, a mug of hot latte 40,000 VND, not too bad compared to 59,000 at Highlands. And you get a free glass of green tea.

It serves a limited line-up of food, but all the coffees and teas, hot and cold, you’d expect to satisfy both expat and local palates. And a selection of Vietnamese cakes. The service is prompt and attentive, the whole experience actually more relaxing than a table down below at Highland to be honest…

There’s free wifi (of course), electrical sockets scattered about the floor for your laptop power (mind your step!) and piped elevator music – not quite library like, but relaxing nevertheless.

Speaking of coffee…

Next week’s new arrival in downtown is a new Sony store, built on Dong Khoi where Gloria Jeans once thrived (in a far from relaxing environment) before one day closing without notice and promising to return when Vincom 2 opens just up the road. In October.

Sony is the once aspirational Japanese brand that dominated electronics before it got lazy, lost its innovative streak and started to mass produce cheap lines with dumbed down specs – “our customers can’t tell the difference” a senior executive was famously quoted as saying last year. Now it makes junk for the mass market and these days mass market translates to developing BRIC (Brazil, Russia, India, China) economies, and those smaller ones riding on their coat tails (like Vietnam). So while Sony globally will axe 10,000 jobs this year and lose US$2.6 billion (yes, that was meant to read billion, not  million!) and its once loyal western customer base trade their old Sony products in for nice shiny new Samsungs, the company seems to be broadening its single-brand outlet strategy across Asia.

Why else would Sony open a dedicated store in such a high-rent location as Dong Khoi, within 100 metres of real luxury brands like Gucci and Louis Vuitton and Chanel and the amazing Christian Louboutin shoes?

For a while there were rumours circulating this would be the site of a city’s first Starbucks, a new Pho 24 (yeah, right) and a Brodards Bakery (which it turns out was an earlier tenant, hence the old signage displayed when the Gloria Jeans banners were torn down).

Perhaps a couple of weeks off yet is a new cupcake store, a hole in the wall shop being fitted out on the corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Thanh Ton – if the signage, which appeared a few weeks back but has now vanished, is to be believed.

Another discovery this week was a gigantic new Trung Nguyen coffee house on the edge of the backpacker region. By Vietnamese standards, this cafe on the corner of Pham Ngu Lao and Nguyen Thai Hoc is enormous. The ground floor has a giant coffee roaster as a centrepiece and a large air conditioned seating area. Upstairs is a giant open air area, with two large air conditioned areas adjacent.

If you’re dining in, they’ll take your order at the table, but downstairs you can buy from Trung Nguyen’s extensive range of coffee products for home use, including beans by grade in bulk by weight.

This location was a building site just a few weeks back – and it officially opens its doors on Monday April 23. So the comfortable lounge chairs upstairs have yet to be scratched. So, too, the smell of fresh varnish and paint has yet to be overwhelmed by that of fresh coffee beans.

It’s pricey – especially for a backpacker area, with a cup (not mug) of Latte around 59,000 VND, pretty much on par with Highlands. But that’s still cheaper than the same cup in a city like Sydney… If only it was hotter and the dreadful piped music (think Richard Clayderman for those old enough to remember him!) played at lower volume!

So many new bars, cafes, stores, nightclubs and other businesses open every week in Saigon it’s impossible to keep up.

And that’s just now. Wait until the new malls open later this year… Times Square and Vincom 2 for starters are sure to bring new retail experiences to the city from off-shore – and hopefully give some local operators a lift up as well!  

Apr15

Lunching with the toys, sleeping in the kitchen

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Lunching with the toys, sleeping in the kitchen

Shopping or dining in Saigon exposes one to opposite extremes of the customer service experience – often in just a single day.

At this point, I should divulge (for those who don’t know me outside the blogosphere) that I’ve spent more than a decade observing, writing about and photographing retail stores all over the world – that’s my day job. So I figure by now I can recognise good customer service when I experience it. And bad.

I’m a regular customer at Highlands, my favourite of a fairly limited offer of espresso-style coffee chains here. At Highlands one can experience the best and worst of Saigon service – sometimes in the same store.

At Vincom Highlands, where I am a regular, some of the staff know me well enough to just check my order without offering the menu (although the new menu this month caused confusion when I decided to indulge in pancakes with strawberries only to discover they’re no longer made – at least my doctor will be pleased). One or two will often give me two or three extra of those yummy little complimentary cookies with my cafe latte, making me feel special and more inclined to return.

But this weekend, I had the opposite service experience at the Saigon Centre Highlands, probably the city’s busiest.

A smiling young male takes my order: a tall cafe latte hot and a croque monsieur – with an egg on top. He sets off to arrange it and I resume writing my blog (the next instalment).

Several minutes later, about the time I would be expecting my coffee to arrive, he returns, this time holding an order pad. “Excuse me sir, can I check your order?”

“Sure,” I say and wait for him to speak. But wait, this is in fact his way of conveying he has forgotten my order and wants me not to check it but to repeat it. So I do.

“OK,” he confirms. “One cafe latte tall. Hot. And one croque monsieur.”

“Yes, with an egg.”

“An egg?”

“Yes.”

He looks confused.

“An egg,” I repeat yet again. Fried. On top”.

I am confused. After all, this dish has been on Highlands’ menu since I arrived here four months ago.

So I quickly open a new tab on my laptop, type egg in the address bar and Google takes a few seconds to display some images of eggs. I point to one of a fried egg on the screen.

“Yes, I know. Egg”. I feel chastised. Perhaps I was, as 10 minutes later my croque monsieur arrives. Without an egg. I gave up.

Hey at least this guy was awake! Well, OK, ambulatory.

The grainy image below was taken on my iPhone one day in Vincom when I was looking for some cooking implements. Fortunately I was not seeking a new kitchen.

But this is an all too common sight in Vietnam: store staff asleep behind the counters, huddled together watching sitcoms on laptops – sometimes at full volume! – or chatting animatedly about their weekend, often while you’re standing confused in the middle of their store trying to catch their diverted attention for some guidance.

Sometimes they’ll be eating their lunch.

Sometimes they’ll do that in the middle of the store. On the floor. In an aisle between stock displays.

I kid you not! Several weeks ago I was in one of the toy shops in Vincom Centre selecting something for my baby niece’s first birthday. I turned to walk down an aisle only to find it blocked by one of the store staff. He had placed a sheet of cardboard on the floor, unwrapped his bowls of food and proceeded to enjoy his lunch.

I couldn’t believe my eyes! If this was a shop house in a backstreet of District 5 or a Sari Sari in Manila, I wouldn’t have batted an eyelid. But this is in the most modern (well, for another month or two at least) shopping centre in downtown Saigon, a western-style mall…

In my western experiences store staff are forbidden to eat or drink food in front of the customer. It’s considered impolite.

There are two main factors driving the lack of service culture in retailing in Saigon: firstly, labour is cheap and store staff are usually paid little more than a survival salary. Workers prefer to work in an air conditioned store environment to a fan-cooled clothing factory, so they might covet a job in a shop. But retailing is not exactly considered a career here.

Secondly, training is evidently non-existent.

By good fortune more than anything else, Vietnamese-run retailers might occasionally hire staff with their own instinctive abilities that make them stand out above their colleagues: people who smile at customers, for example. Western run retailers – like the owners of L’usine off Dong Khoi – will recruit only staff who know how to smile and make the customer feel important. It’s called engagement and engagement is what makes occasional customers loyal customers – and ambassadors for the store.

But consider this experience from the Geox shoe store in Saigon Centre: I walk in, my attention caught by a pair of official Red Bull Racing team sports shoes (I’m a Formula One addict and a mark Webber fan). I seek my size, but they don’t have it in store. So I try on a pair one size larger just in case – nope, they definitely don’t fit. At this point, the store staff were ready to let me walk out of the shop.

But I am very keen to buy these shoes if I can find a pair which fit. So I ask if the store has other branches in Saigon.

Yes, they do. In the Parkson department store on Le Than Ton.

Does he know if they’d have my size in stock?

Not sure. No surprise there, but it’s 2012 and I’m sure both stores have a phone…

Good customer service would have seen the guy offer to phone another branch and see if they had my size in stock well before I thought to ask him to.

Excellent customer service would have been to suggest I have a coffee at the cafe next door while they had the shoes brought across town on a motorbike – they would have impressed with the service, achieved a sale and had me singing their praises to anyone who would listen (or read!). And a motorbike courier from Parkson on Le Thon Tan to the Saigon Centre would have cost less than one US dollar – to achieve a sale of a pair of shoes worth around $200!

Saigon is becoming home to more and more expats, not to mention the growing ranks of overseas educated Vietnamese returning home having been exposed to many different ways of the world. In years to come, consumers will be demanding higher and higher levels of customer service and retail execution.

The challenge for local operators will be to learn from abroad, improve their customer service offer, recruit better and train better. In doing so, perhaps retailing will become a more serious career option for many Vietnamese.

At the very least we should all be able to shop in stores without tripping over staff sitting on the floor eating their lunch!